As
modernity takes hold, traditions are falling on the side. Spirituality as a
guide for conduct in everyday life is something of the past; now we turn to
Science for answers.
Ironically,
as Mc Donalds and Pizza Huts are popping up everywhere, the traditional way
of eating is also making a come-back. What our grandmothers knew all the time is
now being confirmed by modern science: a diet which fundamentally is based on
grains, vegetables and fruits with meat and dairy products used sparingly and as
flavoring, is a healthy one. Furthermore, some combinations are better than
others, because they complement each other for perfect nutrition. The Turkish
Cuisine sets an example in these respects. The recent "food-pyramid"
endorsed by the United States Department of Agriculture resembles age-old
practices in ordinary households. Even the well-known menus of boarding schools
or army kitchens, hardly known for their gourmet characteristics, provide an
excellent nutrition that can be justified with the best of today's scientificknowledge. One
such combination, jokingly referred to as "our national food", is
beans and pilaf, accompanied by pickles and quince compote - a perfectly
nourishing combination which provides the essential proteins, carbohydrates and
minerals. Another curious practice is combining spinach with yogurt. Now we know
that the body needs calcium found in the yogurt to assimilate the iron found in
the spinach.
Yogurt,
a contribution from the Turks to the world, has also become a popular health
food. A staple in the Turkish diet, it has been known all along for its
detoxifying properties. Other such beliefs, not yet supported by modern science,
include the role of onion, used liberally in all dishes-in strengthening the
immune system; garlic for high blood pressure and olive oil as a remedy for
forty one ailments. The complicated debate concerning mono-and polyunsaturated
fats and the good and bad cholesterol is ridiculously inadequate to evaluate
olive oil. Given what we know about health food today, one could even envy the
typical lunch fare of the proverbial construction worker who, like all his kind,
shouts "endearing" words to the passing-by females, while eating
bread, feta cheese and fresh grapes in the summer and bread and tahini helva in
the winter.
The
variety of pastry turnovers with cheese or ground meat, meat pide, or kebabs are
the fast food for millions of working people. These are all prepared entirely on
the premises using age-old practices.
One
of the main culprits in the modern-day diet is the snack, that horrible junk
food designed to give a quick sugar - high to keep one going for the rest of the
day. Again, modern science has come to the rescue, and healthy snacks are now
being discovered. Some of these are amazingly familiar to the Turks! Take, for
example, the "fruit roll-ups". Visit any dry-food store that sells
nuts and fruits, and you will see the authentic version, such as the sheets of
mashed and dried apricots and grapes. In these stores, there are many other
items that await discovery by some pioneering entrepreneur to the Western
markets. Another wholesome snack known as the "trail mix" or "gorp"
is well known to all Turkish mothers, who traditionally stuff a handful of mixed
nuts and raisins in the pockets of their children's school uniform to snack on
before exams. This practice can be traced to ancient fables, where the hero goes
on a diet of hazelnuts and raisins before fighting with the giants and dragons,
or before weaving the king a golden smock. The Prince always loads onto the
mythological bird, the "Zümrüt Anka", forty sacks of nuts and
raisins for himself, and water and meat for the bird that takes him over the
high Caucuses Mountains...
As
far as food goes, it is reassuring to know that we are re-discovering what is
good for our bodies. Nevertheless, one is left with the nagging feeling that
such knowledge will always be incomplete as long as it is divorced from its
cultural context and spiritual traditions. The challenge facing modern Turkey is
to achieve such continuity, in the time of genetic engineering, high-tech mass
production and a growing number of convenience-oriented households. But for now,
the markets are vibrant and the dishes are tastier than ever, so e n j o y!