Beverages : Knowing beyond the
Turkish Coffee and "Ayran"
Volumes have been written about the Turkish coffee; its history, significance in
social life, and the ambiance of the ubiquitous coffee houses.
Without
some understanding of this background, it is easy to be disappointed by the tiny
brew with the annoying grounds on which an uninitiated traveler (like Mark
Twain) may accidentally end up chewing. A few words of caution will have to
suffice for the purposes of this brief primer. First, the grounds are not to be
swallowed; so, sip the coffee gingerly. Secondly, don't expect a caffeine surge
with one shot of Turkish coffee, it is not "strong", just thick.
Third, remember that it is the setting and the company that matters-the coffee
is just an excuse for the occasion... Wooden coffee mills
Tea, on the other hand, is the main source of caffeine for the Turks. It is
prepared in a special way, by brewing it over boiling water and served in
delicate, small clear glasses to show the deep red color and to keep it hot.
Drinking tea is such an essential part of a working day, that any disruption of
the constant supply of fresh tea is a sure way to sacrifice productivity. Once
upon a time, so the story goes, a lion escaped from the Ankara Zoo and took up
residence in the basement of an office building. It began devouring public
servants and executives. It even ate up a few ministers of state and nobody took
notice. It is said that a posse was immediately formed when the lion caught and
ate the "tea-man", the person responsible for the supply of fresh tea!
A park without tea and coffee is inconceivable in Turkey. Thus, every spot with
a view has a tea-house or a tea-garden. These places may be under a plane tree
looking into the village or town square, on top of hills with majestic views of
a valley or the sea, by the harbor, in the market, on a road-side with a scenic
overview, by a waterfall or in the woods. Among the typical tea-gardens in
Istanbul : the Emirgan on the European side, Camlica on the Anatolian side of
the Bosphorus, the famous Pierre Loti cafe, and the tea-garden in Üsküdar. (Nargile)
But the traditional tea-houses are beginning to disappear from the more
tourist-oriented seaside locations, in favour of "pubs" and "Biergarten"...
Among the beverages worth mentioning are excellent bottled fruit juices. But,
perhaps the most interesting drink is "boza", traditionally sold in neighborhood
streets by mobile vendors on a winter night. This is a thick, fermentated drink
made of wheat berries, to be enjoyed with a dash of cinnamon and a handful of
roasted chick-peas. Boza can also be found year-round at certain cafes or
dessert shops. Finally, "sahlep" is a hot drink made milk and sahlep
powder. It is a good remedy for sore throats and colds, in addition to being
delicious.